Update on CVA Wolf Muzzleloader

I wanted to clarify my last post on the CVA Wolf Muzzleloader.

First, The scope mount that comes with the kit from Cabela's does not work with the Cabela's Powderhorn scope that comes with the kit.  The scope mounts will not allow the scope to clear the iron sights.  Even if you remove the upper part of the iron sights, the base still interferes with the scope.  If you buy a CVA Wolf muzzleloader kit (rifle, scope, scope mounts all together) from Cabela's you should expect a trip to a store to buy new scope mounts that work.  Cabela's was not able to fix the problem over the phone.  They just kept sending non-working scope mounts, and even the counter people at the Cabela's store I visited were not helpful.  You're on your own with this one.  Just to recap, I ended up buying "see-through" scope mounts that sit considerably higher, providing clearance for the iron sights.

Secondly, in my previous post I mentioned that my ramrod broke before I completed sighting in the rifle.  Cabela's did send me a replacement ramrod free-of-charge in time for the weekend hunt.  However, I missed the deer I shot at during that hunt.  It was maybe a 50 yard shot, free-hand (i.e. no rest for the gun), with some brush.  Still, I thought it was a shot that I should make.  Perhaps the bullet was deflected by some brush, perhaps the sight-in was not as close as I thought, or perhaps it was a combination of factors, but I missed.  I will definitely have to continue refining the accuracy of the rifle before next season now that I have a new ramrod.

Bristol-Plainville Outdoor Ice Skating Conditions

I checked out 2 different places local to the Bristol-Plainville Connecticut area this weekend for outdoor ice skating.

Plainville Middle School has an iced over pond cleared off for skating.  It is unsupervised and does not get a lot of use.  It's a good spot for some pick up pond hockey.  This is a natural, mostly untended surface, so conditions were a little rough this weekend.  There were a lot of bumps and snow patches.  However, it was skatable.  You need to go during daylight since there are no lights.  If there's snow, bring your shovel to clear off a spot.

The volleyball courts at Stocks Playground in Bristol were iced over and open for public skating.  The conditions are slightly better than in Plainville, although about a third of the rink was blocked off due to poor conditions.  Lights are available for evening skating, but the area is supervised.  The public can only skate during certain hours.  The exact hours are available on the Bristol town website under the Parks Department section.  The weekend hours are something like noon to 5 PM.  During the week the rink is open until 6 PM, although I'm not sure when it opens.  Otherwise, the gate to the fence is locked.  The rink is rather small (about the size of 3 volleyball courts) and crowded, and hockey is not allowed due to the congestion.  However, usually the ice is pretty smooth, and there are benches available.

Powerbelt Bullets versus Plastic Covered Sabots in Muzzleloaders

It's a little late in the year to be writing about muzzleoaders, but there was one topic I failed to mention during the hunting season that I wanted to touch upon: What's the best bullet to use in a muzzleloader?

I think it's pretty safe to assume that we can all conclude that a round ball is not the way to go in today's modern muzzleloader rifles.  Therefore, most people use either the plastic covered sabot bullets, or the Powerbelt type bullets.  If you are not familiar with Powerbelt bullets, you can check out their website:

http://powerbeltbullets.com/

Instead of using a plastic sleeve, Powerbelts have a plastic piece attached to the back of them that does the job of the plastic sleeve in standard sabot rounds.

Now, I'm not going to talk about performance, and ballistics, and velocity or any other high tech bullet performance topic.  As far as I'm concerned, for hunting whitetails in Connecticut and throughout the Northeast, both plastic covered sabots and Powerbelt-type bullets are more than capable of killing a deer at most practical distances.  The biggest concern for me when comparing the two was ease of use.

I'm new to muzzleloaders, so upon first loading a muzzleloader with a plastic covered sabot I was amazed at how difficult it was to push the bullet down the barrel.  After a few shots it was nearly a two man operation to get the plastic sabot down the barrel.  Although I would not characterize them as easy, the Powerbelt bullets had a significant advantage over the standard plastic sabots in ease of pushing down the barrel.  Additionally, the Powerbelt bullets do not foul the barrel with plastic after shooting, so it's easier to push the Powerbelt down a fouled barrel.

To me, the Powerbelt bullets were significantly easier to use than the plastic covered sabots.  I reccommend anyone who shoots muzzleloaders currently using plastic sabots to consider trying out the Powerbelt-type bullets. 

 

How to Obtain A Connecticut Pistol Permit

The journey to get a pistol permit in the state of Connecticut is not for the faint of heart. It took me 4+ months and over $300 just to have access to my rights supposedly guaranteed to me by the second amendment of the Bill of Rights of the United States Constitution. Despite the bureaucratic BS, I have persevered and finally received my Connecticut pistol permit.


My memory may fail me on all the exact fees and charges, but the process for getting a Connecticut pistol permit is summarized below:

1) Consider getting your hunting license. This is not a requirement, but the NRA firearms safety course that is required to obtain a hunting license is useful. It gives you some education, and gives your future pistol permit class instructor a good feeling that you are at least somewhat familiar with firearms.
2) Take an NRA-certified pistol safety course. Cost: ~$100. You can use the NRA website to find courses and instructors in your area. Be sure to take the correct course required for the pistol permit, as the NRA offers several types of courses. The course I took was held in the basement of a local NRA instructor. The course is designed to be a full day course, but the actual length will vary depending on the number of students, and the knowledge level of the students. I was done with my class by lunchtime. Live fire is required for the course. For that portion we had to go to a local indoor shooting range. There is also a basic written test that must be passed in order to complete the class. The instructor determines the price of the class, but most instructors are charging around $100.
3) Apply for a local permit at the local police station. Cost: $70. After passing the NRA course, you will need to take your course certificate, certified birth certificate ($10) or passport, drivers license, and passport-style photo (free at AAA if you are a member) to your local police station. There they will give you the necessary forms to fill out to apply for the local permit. Of course, there is a processing fee. They may also schedule a time for you to be fingerprinted if they don’t do it at that time.
4) Get finger printed. Cost: $50. You will need to submit to fingerprints at the local police station. There is a charge for the station to do the fingerprinting.
5) Wait for background check. At this point, you have provided the local police department everything they need to process your permit. They will conduct a background check and call you at the conclusion of the background check. They estimate that the background check will take 6 weeks, but it will most likely take longer.
6) Pick up local pistol permit. Cost: $70. After completing the background check, the local police department will call you to pick up your local pistol permit. This permit is good for 60 days.
7) Go to DPS to obtain state permit. Cost: $70. After getting your local permit, you take this permit, your certified birth certificate or passport, and drivers license to one of the Connecticut Department of Public Safety locations. At that point, you will wait in line, fill out a form, pay another $70 any they will take your picture and immediately issue your state pistol permit, which is good for 5 years. I went to the DPS headquarters location in Middletown, but your local police station should provide a list of all the available locations. Most other locations are in police barracks throughout the state.

That’s it. At that point, you have your Connecticut pistol permit.

It seems simple on paper, but in my case it required a trip to the town hall of the town in which I was born to obtain a certified birth certificate, a trip to the local AAA office to get a passport photo, sacrificing a Saturday for the NRA class, 3 trips to the local police station, and an afternoon driving and waiting in line at the state DPS.

“The journey of a thousand miles begins with a single step” – Confucius

“From my cold, dead hands” – Charlton Heston

2009 Hunting Season in Review

It started with turkeys in May, then a long wait until pheasants in October. Deer started in November, ending with late season muzzleloader deer in December. Some people are even able to squeeze in archery, waterfowl, small game, and other assorted game into the season. This Sunday, all the guns were cleaned and put away, and the equipment was stored to mark the end of a successful 2009 hunting season.

Personally, I had some successes and some short falls in 2009 hunting. However, I feel that I expanded my hunting activities (trying black powder muzzleloader hunting for the first time), and continued to learn in the 2009 season. Even though I’ve been in the woods for many years now, there’s still a lot to learn. That makes being in the outdoors a challenging and fun endeavor.

Below is a 2009 wrap-up and a look forward to 2010.

2009 Spring Turkey:
I started turkey hunting about 5 or 6 years ago. Back then, I started out just struggling to locate birds, understand their habits, and learn calling techniques. Success came in baby steps. Soon I gained enough skill to be able to call a bird in. Eventually, I bagged my first turkey a few years ago. After struggling to find a good location to hunt in 2008, in 2009 I went back to the spot where I had success in previous years and was able to fill both tags.
Turkey hunting has been especially rewarding for me because in a short time I’ve been able to climb a steep learning curve. I started out from ground zero, and although I would hardly call myself an expert, I think I’ve gotten to the point where I can reasonably expect to bag a turkey.
I’ve already got the vacation days marked off the calendar for opening day of turkey season 2010. I have 3 separate spots in mind. I’ve seen turkeys in all 3 spots in the past. Other hunters will be more of a factor in my success in 2010 than the turkey density. If any of the 3 spots I have in mind for 2010 are reasonably fee of other hunters, there’s a pretty good chance I can get a bird. If I have to dodge other hunters, then it’s possible to come away empty handed. For this reason, unless a plot of land not hunted by others (i.e. private land) is available to you, it’s best to plan ahead and have multiple locations in-mind for spring turkey hunting.

Biggest Success: Filled both tags.
Biggest Mistake: Getting a 3.5-inch shell jammed in a shotgun intended only for 3-inch max shells. Luckily I was able to remove the shell without damage.
Biggest Lesson Learned: Avoiding other hunters is just as important as density of turkeys on a property. Have a back up plan in case your first spot is pressured.
Grade: A
Note: Both spring turkeys were stored in my freezer until Thanksgiving time. Both birds came out delicious cooked in the traditional Thanksgiving turkey style.

2009 Pheasant:
Although there’s still room for improvement, the state of Connecticut did a better job running the pheasant stocking program in 2009. Unfortunately, I did not improve my shooting much. I missed a couple birds, but got a couple birds, so it was not a total loss. One positive result of the 2009 season was that we were able to find and learn another quality pheasant hunting location.

Biggest Success: Scouted a new hunting location in 2009.
Biggest Mistake: Missed at least 2 point-blank birds.
Biggest Lesson Learned: Relax when shooting. Practice to improve shooting skills.
Grade: C

2009 Deer:
It was not a trophy, but I got a buck in 2009. Even though I’ve been deer hunting on-and-off since being a young teenager, I learned a lot by spending a large amount of time in the 2009 deer woods. I learned that I need to be looking more carefully when traveling in the woods. I spooked several deer and did not see them until they were running away. I learned that it’s advisable to take the first shot available rather than waiting for the perfect shot since the perfect shot may never come. I had a chance at a nice buck, but lost him when I hesitated. Just by spending a lot of time paying attention in the woods, I’ve also improved my skills at finding locations deer populate. In both states I hunted I was able to find spots with good deer signs.

Biggest Success: Shot a buck, and my first New Hampshire deer.
Biggest Mistake: Hesitated and missed a nice Connecticut buck.
Biggest Lesson Learned: Spending time in the woods and hunting hard usually equals success.
Grade: B – As long as there’s meat in the freezer, the grade can’t go below a B.

2009 Muzzleloader:
2009 was my first year trying black powder muzzleloader hunting. I had several equipment difficulties, and by the time I actually got my gun sighted in I only got one morning in the woods. I managed to see 4 deer, and actually shot and missed at one. This was a disappointment (I’m still running it through my head to figure out how I missed!), but just getting started in muzzleloader season made 2009 a success. 2010 should be much improved.

Biggest Success: Getting started in muzzleloader hunting.
Biggest Mistake: Missing a deer I shot at.
Biggest Lesson Learned: Get all equipment ready to go (especially sighting in) well before the start of the season.
Grade: B – Just getting started makes this season a B. However, the standards will be much higher for next season. A grade of B will require a dead deer in 2010.


Looking Forward to 2010:
I probably spent more time hunting in 2009 than any other year prior. This is a pace I’d love to continue in 2010. Much like the lottery, you can’t win if you don’t play. Even if unable to harvest any game, the time spent in the woods increases knowledge and improves odds of reaching your goal on the next trip.

I’m planning on raising the bar in 2010. Instead of just one deer (as in 2009), I’ll continue to be work hard for two deer in 2010 (although I certainly appreciate getting just one deer). Instead of a small buck, I’ll be setting my sights on a mature buck in 2010. To reach these goals, the most important action is to be in the woods as much as possible. The second thing is to build on my existing skills to get closer to my goals. Before 2009, I felt that the only real way I would have a shot at a mature buck was by running into one by luck. Although luck still plays a part, I feel that I’ve gained a little more woods-wisdom in 2009 to get me closer to that buck in 2010.

It likely will not happen in 2010, but just as I expanded into the muzzleloader season this year, I’d like to keep expanding into different hunting arenas. For example, maybe try duck or goose hunting some day. Maybe try some New Hampshire turkey hunting. Maybe someday taking a hunting trip to try for game not available in Connecticut (elk, boar, moose, bear, dhal sheep, pronghorn, mountain goat, etc.). The hunting season is like life; both are short, so take advantage of them when you can.

Equipment Review: CVA Wolf Muzzleloader

I’ve had quite an adventure so far with the CVA Wolf muzzleloader and Cabela’s. I decided to finally pull the trigger on a muzzleloader purchase this year after wanting one for many years. I wanted to benefit from the extended deer hunting season when using a muzzleloader. After a lot of on-line research I finally settled on the CVA Wolf muzzleloader from Cabela’s. I did not want to shell out the money for a top-of-the-line muzzleloader, so I had to do my homework to get a balance of price and features. I read a lot of on-line reviews and research, and I think I made a good choice with the CVA Wolf. I went with the complete package with camo stock, scope, and starter kit included.
Upon finally making my decision, and going to the on-line checkout, I found out that this model was on backorder. I continued because I was willing to wait. After I received my muzzleloader, I found out that the scope was not mounted to the rifle. I was expecting the rifle to arrive mounted and bore sighted. This was not the case. I took to the task of installing the scope mounts and scope. The scope mounts that Cabela’s sent me were not able to work with the scope. The scope touched the iron sights of the rifle because the scope mounts were too low. Even with the back sight removed, the scope still touched the site mount. I contacted Cabela’s to tell them I needed higher scope mounts. They agreed to send me a correct set. However, they sent me the same exact set of scope mounts. Now, due to these delays, I would not be able to take my muzzleloader along to the hunting cabin to sight it in. I was forced to drive to the nearest Cabela’s store to get this situation resolved. I waited an hour to get a customer service person to explain the situation. This customer service person at the Cabela’s store did not know how to resolve the situation. However, after some back-and-forth, he suggested that I get a “see-through” scope mount. The see-through mount sits higher and has a window that allows the shooter to use the iron sites or the scope. I took this set home and mounted the scope. Finally, I got my hands on a set of mounts that allowed me to properly mount my scope. After all this, I actually got a set of scope mounts I preferred. I like the fact that I can still use the iron sites. One disadvantage is that the comb of the Wolf stock was not designed for this higher scope mount. The comb rests a little low on the cheek when using this scope mount. For me, this was a minor inconvenience, and an acceptable trade-off to keep the ability to use the iron sites along with the scope. In Cabela’s defense, they exchanged the incorrect sights for the more expensive see-through sights with no hesitation.
Now that I finally had my scope mounted, I was able to fire the first shot from the rifle while I sighted it in. I used the Leopold Zero Point Bore Sighter to zero the scope. The bore sighter was able to get me on-paper at 50 yards. I used 100 grains of Pyrodex-style powder with .245 grain PowerBelt bullets. The PowerBelt-type bullets went down the barrel much easier than plastic sabot-type bullets I’ve used on other muzzleloaders.
Even though it was snowing hard, everything was going well while sighting in the rifle, when after pushing in one stubborn bullet the ram rod broke right in half. Once again I contacted Cabela’s. They are supposedly sending me a replacement ramrod that should be here by Thursday. If Cabela’s does not deliver in time, I will miss yet another weekend of the muzzleloader season. This is the last weekend, so Cabela's needs to come through. Luckily, I was able to get the rifle sighted in relatively close before the ramrod broke. The sight in was not perfect, but adequate. I will go with it for the rest of this season, and then try to get it more accurately sighted in next season.
Last night I took the time to clean the rifle from shots fired after sighting it in. The break action design makes cleaning relatively easy. I've heard stories about how difficult a muzzleloader is to clean. I did not have that experience. The black powder solution was able to easily clean the barrel after a few patches. The powder I used was advertised as "easy-clean", so perhaps that helped.

I’ve had my issues with Cabela’s and the CVA Wolf muzzleloader to this point, and I’ve yet to even get it out on a hunt! Despite all of this, perhaps surprisingly, I’m satisfied with the CVA Wolf muzzleloader. The Wolf has all the features of the most expensive muzzleloaders, but at a lower cost. I paid about $300 for mine with the scope and starter kit included. The Wolf is a break open design. The lever just below the trigger works to easily open the action. The breech plug is easily removed with a wrench that’s included with the rifle. The gun is short and easy to handle. The iron sights use fiber optics that makes them easily seen even in low light conditions. The hammer is accessible and easy to operate. Additionally, the gun produces good accuracy at 50 and 100 yards. The Cabela’s Powder Horn scope (that comes with the kit) has crosshairs designed for 100, 150, 200, and 250 yards. The scope is clear with no issues a 3 to 10X.

Now that my set up is adequate, I’m looking forward to trying the CVA Wolf in the field. I hope this gun will provide many, many years of service.

Update on Leupold Zero Point Bore Sighter

Yesterday I mounted a new scope on my muzzleloader. I used the Leupold Zero Point to bore sight the rifle before sighting it in with live fire. The Leupold Zero Point was able to do the job on this set up. It got me on-paper at 50 yards with the first shot. From there, I was able to fine tune.
I mentioned in an earlier post that this set up would be the decider on the Leupold Zero Point. If it worked on this set up, I would keep it. If it did not work, I would return it. The Zero Point worked well enough to get me on-paper, which is really all one can ask from a bore sighting, so I will keep the product.

Equipment Review: Bushnell Backtrack GPS – Better than noting, but not as good as it should be

The Bushnell Backtrack is a hand held electronic compass that uses a GPS signal. It is meant to tell you direction at any time, as well as an “as-the-crow-flies” distance from one of 3 selected waypoints.

I was attracted to the Bushnell Backtrack because of its simplicity, small size, and low cost. I purchased the unit for approximately $70 from Cabela’s. I was hoping to get something that I could slip into a pocket that would give me some confidence while hunting in the big woods. Also, I was hoping it could save me some time returning to my car after a day in the woods. If it worked as advertised, the Bushnell Backtrack would have been perfect for my needs. However, I had several issue with the Bushnell Backtrack.

First, the unit had difficulty picking up a GPS signal when in the woods. It was able to pick up a signal relatively easily in an open field or on a trail or road. However, when you need it most, in the middle of the thick woods, it could not always pick up a signal.
Second, the compass feature was not properly working. I compared the electronic compass reading to a reading on traditional compass. They did not match. A compass that can’t be trusted is not useful.
Lastly, the arrows intended to direct you back to your base point were not always accurate. The unit seemed to correctly tell the distance from a point, but fell down in pointing the direction. I observed that after a while the arrow would point in the correct direction, but when the unit was first turned on, the arrow direction was incorrect. This is not a good thing when in the middle of the deep woods. Even though I knew the direction back to my vehicle, the incorrect arrow direction on the Bushnell Backtrack made me question myself. Luckily I trusted my instincts and ignored the Bushnell Backtrack. Eventually the unit corrected itself, but I could have spent a lot of time walking in the opposite direction if I followed the Bushnell Backtrack.

I suppose if you were truly lost in the woods, since the unit did EVENTUALLY give the correct direction, it would be better than being lost in the woods with nothing. However, the unit did not operate up to my standards, or as advertised.
I will be returning the unit and spending the extra money to buy a regular map-based GPS unit. It’s a shame because I really liked the small size and simplicity of the Bushnell Backtrack. Now I will be forced to carry a larger unit if I want GPS insurance when in the woods.

Successful Buck Hunting in New Hampshire

I was fortunate enough to harvest a 4-point buck during the second week of New Hampshire’s firearms season. It’s no trophy, but it’s in the freezer! This is the first buck I’ve had a chance at in New Hampshire, which only allows bucks to be taken during most of the season (It depends on the region.).
I startled this guy at about 11:15 AM in some thick re-growth after returning from a morning sitting. He paused for a moment to see what I was, and I was able to find a shooting lane to get him in the ribs with my .30-06. He ran only a short distance before lying down. When I went to retrieve him, I startled a second deer that I never got a look at.
I had a very short drag to get him onto the path. Once on the path we were able to use a tractor to pick him up and bring him the rest of the way back to camp.I’ve already enjoyed two family meals from this guy. Both were prepared about the same way. The first meal I used steaks, the second chops. I pan seared them in butter with green peppers, onions, mushrooms, and garlic. Both meals were delicious.

Equipment Review: Leupold Zero Point Boresighter

The Leupold Zero Point boresighter is an ingenious device. Magnets hold the device to the muzzle of any gun, and an image is projected into the scope. The image is a target surrounded by a grid. The gun can be sighted by lining up the crosshairs to the center of the projected target. Once the crosshairs are aligned to the grid center, theoretically the projectile (bullet, slug, sabot) should “hit-the-paper” at 100 yards.
The appeal of the Leupold boresighter is that it is intended for use on any gun, it can be used indoors or out, and it is portable enough to be brought along to check the center of a gun at any time. The product is also reasonably priced compared to other laser boresighters on the market. The Leupold boresighter can be purchased for under $100. All of these are great features that would make the Leupold Zero Point boresighter a great product. The problem is that is does not work all the time.
I used the Leupold Zero Point on my Savage .30-06 with a 3-9X scope, and it worked well. I tried it again on my father’s .300 Winchester Mag and it said the gun was 16 inches low. We zeroed it out, and then went to the range. Even though the Leupold Zero Point said the gun was now dead center, not only was the gun off the paper at 75 yards, but it was not even hitting the plywood holding the paper. We had to bring the target in to about 25 yards, and sight in the gun the old fashioned way by firing and adjusting, then moving the target out. We then used the Leupold Zero Point on a new muzzleloader that was supposed to be previously boresighted by the gunsmith that mounted the scope. Neither the Leupold Zero Point nor the gunsmith boresighing was hitting on the paper with this gun. Once again, we had to go to the range and get the gun sighted in the old fashioned way. Finally, I tried the Leupold Zero Point on my Mossberg 500 slug gun (rifled barrel). This gun was previously sighted in last year to hit the paper at 50 yards, but was not fine-tuned to be consistently in the black. This gun only has a 2.5X scope. The Leupold Zero Point did not work on this gun. The image projected into the scope was so small in size that it was not clearly visible. I suspect the Leupold Zero Point was not intended for scopes of such low magnification. In summary, I’m going to say that the Leupold Zero Point worked on 1.5 of 4 guns (It half worked on the muzzleloader. It worked well on my .30-06. It did not work on the .300 Winchester Mag or the Mossberg 500 slug gun.). When it worked, it seemed like a pretty good device. However, if you plan on using this one boresighter on all your firearms, it’s unlikely to be able to work on all. If you happen to have one of the guns on which this device works (like my .30-06), this is a great device to check your center easily at any time. If you have one of the guns that are not compatible with the Leupold Zero Point you will likely be disappointed. There does not seem to be a way to predict which guns will work well with this device, and which ones will not. I’m going to give this device one more chance. I have a new muzzleloader on which I am installing a scope. If the Leupold Zero Point does not work on this gun, I will be returning it for a refund. If it works, I’ll keep it with the understanding that it’s useful for some guns, but not all.