Tips to Cleaning A Muzzleloader

Cleaning a muzzleloader is essential to gun longevity, but also accuracy.  Black powder is more corrosive, and "dirtier" than standard smokeless powder, so regular cleaning is even more important for your muzzleloader than for your standard gun.

The process for cleaning a muzzleloader is essentially the same as it is for cleaning any other gun.  However, there are three tips I can pass on that make the job much easier. 

Tip #1 -- Consider the type of powder used:
Certain powders are specifically designed to burn cleaner.  Using these powders will make clean up easier without any loss in performance that I can see.  Winchester Triple 7 powder and primers are both designed to be cleaner burning.  I have been using this powder for a while now, and I recommend it.

Tip #2 -- Use a cleaning solvent specifically designed for black powder:
Regular cleaning oil (like Hoppes #9) will not work to dissolve black powder.  You need a solvent specifically designed for black powder.  These solvents are generally water based, and many have a citrus scent.  They work great to break down black powder.  My method is to take out the breech plug, and letting it soak in a bowl of solvent.  I then proceed to clean the bore dipping the patch in the solvent-filled bowl. 

Tip #3 -- Lubricate the breech plug before screwing it back in:
Taking the breech plug out can be a struggle if it's not lubricated.  Lubricant specifically designed for black powder is available.  I use this, but I suspect some standard type of lubricant would do. 

First Muzzleloader Deer Avoids 2010 Shut Out

I harvested a doe this past weekend to put meat in the freezer for 2010. It was my first muzzleloader deer. I was able to hit the deer in the vitals (although about 3 or 4 inches lower than ideal) using my CVA Wolf Magnum inline muzzleloader from about 120 yards. I know the muzzleloader advertisers and scope makers publish muzzleloader capabilities up to 200 yards and beyond, but in my mind, this long of a shot was quite a test of muzzleloader accuracy. The CVA Wolf passed the test. I was slowly and carefully walking up a steep hill when I spotted this deer. The shot was taken standing while leaning against a tree. I used 2 powder pellets (100 grain equivalent) with a 245 grain Powerbelt muzzleloader bullet (green in color). Most modern magnum muzzleloaders can take up to 150 grains of powder (3 pellets). I chose to use only 100 grains and it seems to be accurate up to long distances. You don’t get many 100-plus yard opportunities in the dense forests of New England. I was fortunate enough to get a clear opening.


Because of the smoke cloud that lingers after a muzzleloader shot, it can often be difficult to determine if your shot hit target or not when using a muzzleloader. This was the case for me. By the time the smoke cleared, I looked around and saw no sign of the deer. I walked over to the spot where the deer was standing. I saw absolutely no blood. I looked around intently in all directions. No sign of the deer. I decided to remain in the spot in which the deer was standing. I was hunting with a friend, and upon hearing my shot he decided to walk towards me. I was ready to declare a missed shot, when he told me that he found the deer on the ground about 40 yards from where I was standing. I was quite lucky that he happened to find that deer. There was no blood anywhere! Even with a layer of snow on the ground, there was no blood trail. That deer would have been lost if not for my friend running into it. As you can imagine, I was quite pleased that we found the deer.

My friend and my father continued hunting the rest of the day. After cleaning the deer, I dragged it back to the parking area. Since my hunting was done, I decided to sit in the car and listen to the radio until they returned. I took a short nap while sitting in the car. At one point, I opened my eyes to see two deer running right in front of my car! It was a doe being chased by a full grown buck, 6 or 8 points). He had his head down and was pursuing the doe impervious to my presence. It was a scene typically reserved for the peak of the chase phase of the rut, but this was December 11. I’ve read about the “second rut” (a second estrus cycle for does that happened to not be impregnated during the initial rut), but this was the first time I had seen it in action. This buck was definitely in rut mode. Little did I know that I could have stayed at the car, and had a shot at a better deer than anything I saw in the woods!

This deer is presently hanging in my garage. Next weekend I’m going to try butchering the deer myself. This will be the first time I’ve done this on my own. I’ll include an entry next week regarding this task.

Lessons Learned
In every trip into the woods, whether successful at harvesting game or not, I find that I learn something.

1) The distance and accuracy capabilities of modern inline muzzleloaders are not just hype. They indeed are capable of shots in the deer woods approaching rifle capabilities.
2) Not every deer shot in the vital area produces a blood trail. Be careful when you think you missed. Search the entire area because even though you see no blood, you still may have hit the deer.
3) The second rut is not all hype. It certainly does exist. This means that doe scents can be effective into mid-December.
4) When taking a long shot, take time to get yourself a good rest. I made sure I was securely resting my front hand on a tree before taking the shot. I also took the time to adjust my scope. I’m sure I would have missed if I did not take the time to do these two things.

A Visit to Wolf’s Indoor Range and Shooting Center – Bristol, CT USA

Where: 597 Middle Street (Route 229), Bristol, CT 06010

Website: www.wolfsrange.com
Phone: 860-585-0447
Hours: Monday 2 PM – 9 PM, Tuesday – Friday 10 AM – 9 PM, Saturday 9:30 AM – 9 PM, Sunday 9:30 AM – 5:30 PM
Cost: It cost me $19 and change for ½ hour and 5 targets
Details: 15 bays, 50+ feet indoor facility. Small shop.

I’ve never visited a shooting range before, so I was not totally sure what to expect when I visited Wolf’s Indoor Range and Shooting Center in Bristol, CT. The experience was stress free. The staff at Wolf’s was no-nonsense, but still friendly. They explained all the range etiquette and rules, and most importantly, welcomed any questions.
Wolf’s has 15 bays available. The range goes beyond 50 feet, which is plenty far for handgun shooting. They have a small store that sells targets, ammo, and various accessories.

If you are visiting a range for the first time, here are a few things to keep in mind:

• If you have them, bring ear and eye protection. If not, Wolf’s has some available to borrow.
• DO NOT “expose” your firearm in the office. It needs to be kept in a case until you get out to the range.
• If you don’t have targets, you can buy them at the range. The targets I purchased were $.30 each.

 I will definitely visit Wolf’s again.

 

Equipment Review: Gunvault Minivault Standard Gun Safe

The Gunvault minivault gun safe is a small size safe intended to hold one or two handguns. The safe is small enough to fit under a bed or in a drawer. It is made of heavy gage steel, and lined with foam. The foam protects the internal contents of the safe. The safe features a spring assisted latch door. When the safe is opened, the door springs open unassisted. The safe features two unlocking methods. One is a standard key entry, and the other is a keypad made to mimic the position of fingers. The keypad runs on AA batteries, which are installed inside the safe. The safe has a low battery indicator light. The safe also includes mounting hardware and a template to allow the user to secure the safe to a floor or other solid surface.

The safe has an optional security cable available. It does not come standard with the safe. It must be purchased separately.
The deluxe version of the safe includes an internal light, an audible warning signal, and an AC connection for power. There is also a more advanced version that includes a biometric (fingerprint) reader to open the safe. This version is significantly more expensive than the standard and deluxe version.
The safe is large enough to fit 2 small guns. I was able to fit one revolver, plus two boxes of ammo in the safe.

I purchased the standard version. The safe appears to be a good option for firearm security in the home. The keypad is quick and easy to use, yet provides strong security. There is a key entry to back up the keypad, so even if batteries run out, the safe can be entered using the key. Additionally, the battery indicator light should remind the user to change the batteries. The spring-loaded door allows for only 1-step opening. As soon as the key is turned or the code is entered, the door springs open. No latches or hinges to operate.

I bought the Gunvault safe at Cabela’s for about $100. I am happy with the purchase.

Gun Show Disappoints

I made my way to the gun show at the Easter States Exposition in Springfield, MA this past weekend. It was not what I was looking for as a new gun shopper. I was expecting several booths where one could view and hold different guns. I was expecting salesmen trying to sell potential buyers on the virtues of their firearms. While there were some booths selling new guns, the majority of tables were devoted to antique items. All but one of the tables selling new guns had them behind glass. The one booth that had the guns available to handle was the most crowded booth at the show. One would thing the other sellers would catch on.


Perhaps my expectations were too high, but the show was closer to a flea market than a convention.

If you are in the market for a new gun, in my opinion the show is not the way to go. The selection at a store like Cabela's is likely better than the show. Additionally, there is no entry fee for Cabela's, and all the accessories you need are available in one place.

For the new firearm buyer, go to your local store. For antique items, check out the show.

West Springfield Gun Show

I've never been to a gun show before, but I plan on attending one this weekend.
This weekend there is an NRA sponsered gun show at the Easter States Exposition (Big E fairgrounds) in West Springfield, MA. 

The link for the show poster is below:

http://users.erols.com/fasttrack/loc/w-spr/SPRINGFIELD-FLYER-MARCH-10.pdf

There is also a coupon online for $1 off admission.  You can print that coupon here:

http://users.erols.com/fasttrack/loc/w-spr/w-spr-coupon.gif

Perhaps I'll see you there.

Update on CVA Wolf Muzzleloader

I wanted to clarify my last post on the CVA Wolf Muzzleloader.

First, The scope mount that comes with the kit from Cabela's does not work with the Cabela's Powderhorn scope that comes with the kit.  The scope mounts will not allow the scope to clear the iron sights.  Even if you remove the upper part of the iron sights, the base still interferes with the scope.  If you buy a CVA Wolf muzzleloader kit (rifle, scope, scope mounts all together) from Cabela's you should expect a trip to a store to buy new scope mounts that work.  Cabela's was not able to fix the problem over the phone.  They just kept sending non-working scope mounts, and even the counter people at the Cabela's store I visited were not helpful.  You're on your own with this one.  Just to recap, I ended up buying "see-through" scope mounts that sit considerably higher, providing clearance for the iron sights.

Secondly, in my previous post I mentioned that my ramrod broke before I completed sighting in the rifle.  Cabela's did send me a replacement ramrod free-of-charge in time for the weekend hunt.  However, I missed the deer I shot at during that hunt.  It was maybe a 50 yard shot, free-hand (i.e. no rest for the gun), with some brush.  Still, I thought it was a shot that I should make.  Perhaps the bullet was deflected by some brush, perhaps the sight-in was not as close as I thought, or perhaps it was a combination of factors, but I missed.  I will definitely have to continue refining the accuracy of the rifle before next season now that I have a new ramrod.

Powerbelt Bullets versus Plastic Covered Sabots in Muzzleloaders

It's a little late in the year to be writing about muzzleoaders, but there was one topic I failed to mention during the hunting season that I wanted to touch upon: What's the best bullet to use in a muzzleloader?

I think it's pretty safe to assume that we can all conclude that a round ball is not the way to go in today's modern muzzleloader rifles.  Therefore, most people use either the plastic covered sabot bullets, or the Powerbelt type bullets.  If you are not familiar with Powerbelt bullets, you can check out their website:

http://powerbeltbullets.com/

Instead of using a plastic sleeve, Powerbelts have a plastic piece attached to the back of them that does the job of the plastic sleeve in standard sabot rounds.

Now, I'm not going to talk about performance, and ballistics, and velocity or any other high tech bullet performance topic.  As far as I'm concerned, for hunting whitetails in Connecticut and throughout the Northeast, both plastic covered sabots and Powerbelt-type bullets are more than capable of killing a deer at most practical distances.  The biggest concern for me when comparing the two was ease of use.

I'm new to muzzleloaders, so upon first loading a muzzleloader with a plastic covered sabot I was amazed at how difficult it was to push the bullet down the barrel.  After a few shots it was nearly a two man operation to get the plastic sabot down the barrel.  Although I would not characterize them as easy, the Powerbelt bullets had a significant advantage over the standard plastic sabots in ease of pushing down the barrel.  Additionally, the Powerbelt bullets do not foul the barrel with plastic after shooting, so it's easier to push the Powerbelt down a fouled barrel.

To me, the Powerbelt bullets were significantly easier to use than the plastic covered sabots.  I reccommend anyone who shoots muzzleloaders currently using plastic sabots to consider trying out the Powerbelt-type bullets. 

 

How to Obtain A Connecticut Pistol Permit

The journey to get a pistol permit in the state of Connecticut is not for the faint of heart. It took me 4+ months and over $300 just to have access to my rights supposedly guaranteed to me by the second amendment of the Bill of Rights of the United States Constitution. Despite the bureaucratic BS, I have persevered and finally received my Connecticut pistol permit.


My memory may fail me on all the exact fees and charges, but the process for getting a Connecticut pistol permit is summarized below:

1) Consider getting your hunting license. This is not a requirement, but the NRA firearms safety course that is required to obtain a hunting license is useful. It gives you some education, and gives your future pistol permit class instructor a good feeling that you are at least somewhat familiar with firearms.
2) Take an NRA-certified pistol safety course. Cost: ~$100. You can use the NRA website to find courses and instructors in your area. Be sure to take the correct course required for the pistol permit, as the NRA offers several types of courses. The course I took was held in the basement of a local NRA instructor. The course is designed to be a full day course, but the actual length will vary depending on the number of students, and the knowledge level of the students. I was done with my class by lunchtime. Live fire is required for the course. For that portion we had to go to a local indoor shooting range. There is also a basic written test that must be passed in order to complete the class. The instructor determines the price of the class, but most instructors are charging around $100.
3) Apply for a local permit at the local police station. Cost: $70. After passing the NRA course, you will need to take your course certificate, certified birth certificate ($10) or passport, drivers license, and passport-style photo (free at AAA if you are a member) to your local police station. There they will give you the necessary forms to fill out to apply for the local permit. Of course, there is a processing fee. They may also schedule a time for you to be fingerprinted if they don’t do it at that time.
4) Get finger printed. Cost: $50. You will need to submit to fingerprints at the local police station. There is a charge for the station to do the fingerprinting.
5) Wait for background check. At this point, you have provided the local police department everything they need to process your permit. They will conduct a background check and call you at the conclusion of the background check. They estimate that the background check will take 6 weeks, but it will most likely take longer.
6) Pick up local pistol permit. Cost: $70. After completing the background check, the local police department will call you to pick up your local pistol permit. This permit is good for 60 days.
7) Go to DPS to obtain state permit. Cost: $70. After getting your local permit, you take this permit, your certified birth certificate or passport, and drivers license to one of the Connecticut Department of Public Safety locations. At that point, you will wait in line, fill out a form, pay another $70 any they will take your picture and immediately issue your state pistol permit, which is good for 5 years. I went to the DPS headquarters location in Middletown, but your local police station should provide a list of all the available locations. Most other locations are in police barracks throughout the state.

That’s it. At that point, you have your Connecticut pistol permit.

It seems simple on paper, but in my case it required a trip to the town hall of the town in which I was born to obtain a certified birth certificate, a trip to the local AAA office to get a passport photo, sacrificing a Saturday for the NRA class, 3 trips to the local police station, and an afternoon driving and waiting in line at the state DPS.

“The journey of a thousand miles begins with a single step” – Confucius

“From my cold, dead hands” – Charlton Heston

Equipment Review: CVA Wolf Muzzleloader

I’ve had quite an adventure so far with the CVA Wolf muzzleloader and Cabela’s. I decided to finally pull the trigger on a muzzleloader purchase this year after wanting one for many years. I wanted to benefit from the extended deer hunting season when using a muzzleloader. After a lot of on-line research I finally settled on the CVA Wolf muzzleloader from Cabela’s. I did not want to shell out the money for a top-of-the-line muzzleloader, so I had to do my homework to get a balance of price and features. I read a lot of on-line reviews and research, and I think I made a good choice with the CVA Wolf. I went with the complete package with camo stock, scope, and starter kit included.
Upon finally making my decision, and going to the on-line checkout, I found out that this model was on backorder. I continued because I was willing to wait. After I received my muzzleloader, I found out that the scope was not mounted to the rifle. I was expecting the rifle to arrive mounted and bore sighted. This was not the case. I took to the task of installing the scope mounts and scope. The scope mounts that Cabela’s sent me were not able to work with the scope. The scope touched the iron sights of the rifle because the scope mounts were too low. Even with the back sight removed, the scope still touched the site mount. I contacted Cabela’s to tell them I needed higher scope mounts. They agreed to send me a correct set. However, they sent me the same exact set of scope mounts. Now, due to these delays, I would not be able to take my muzzleloader along to the hunting cabin to sight it in. I was forced to drive to the nearest Cabela’s store to get this situation resolved. I waited an hour to get a customer service person to explain the situation. This customer service person at the Cabela’s store did not know how to resolve the situation. However, after some back-and-forth, he suggested that I get a “see-through” scope mount. The see-through mount sits higher and has a window that allows the shooter to use the iron sites or the scope. I took this set home and mounted the scope. Finally, I got my hands on a set of mounts that allowed me to properly mount my scope. After all this, I actually got a set of scope mounts I preferred. I like the fact that I can still use the iron sites. One disadvantage is that the comb of the Wolf stock was not designed for this higher scope mount. The comb rests a little low on the cheek when using this scope mount. For me, this was a minor inconvenience, and an acceptable trade-off to keep the ability to use the iron sites along with the scope. In Cabela’s defense, they exchanged the incorrect sights for the more expensive see-through sights with no hesitation.
Now that I finally had my scope mounted, I was able to fire the first shot from the rifle while I sighted it in. I used the Leopold Zero Point Bore Sighter to zero the scope. The bore sighter was able to get me on-paper at 50 yards. I used 100 grains of Pyrodex-style powder with .245 grain PowerBelt bullets. The PowerBelt-type bullets went down the barrel much easier than plastic sabot-type bullets I’ve used on other muzzleloaders.
Even though it was snowing hard, everything was going well while sighting in the rifle, when after pushing in one stubborn bullet the ram rod broke right in half. Once again I contacted Cabela’s. They are supposedly sending me a replacement ramrod that should be here by Thursday. If Cabela’s does not deliver in time, I will miss yet another weekend of the muzzleloader season. This is the last weekend, so Cabela's needs to come through. Luckily, I was able to get the rifle sighted in relatively close before the ramrod broke. The sight in was not perfect, but adequate. I will go with it for the rest of this season, and then try to get it more accurately sighted in next season.
Last night I took the time to clean the rifle from shots fired after sighting it in. The break action design makes cleaning relatively easy. I've heard stories about how difficult a muzzleloader is to clean. I did not have that experience. The black powder solution was able to easily clean the barrel after a few patches. The powder I used was advertised as "easy-clean", so perhaps that helped.

I’ve had my issues with Cabela’s and the CVA Wolf muzzleloader to this point, and I’ve yet to even get it out on a hunt! Despite all of this, perhaps surprisingly, I’m satisfied with the CVA Wolf muzzleloader. The Wolf has all the features of the most expensive muzzleloaders, but at a lower cost. I paid about $300 for mine with the scope and starter kit included. The Wolf is a break open design. The lever just below the trigger works to easily open the action. The breech plug is easily removed with a wrench that’s included with the rifle. The gun is short and easy to handle. The iron sights use fiber optics that makes them easily seen even in low light conditions. The hammer is accessible and easy to operate. Additionally, the gun produces good accuracy at 50 and 100 yards. The Cabela’s Powder Horn scope (that comes with the kit) has crosshairs designed for 100, 150, 200, and 250 yards. The scope is clear with no issues a 3 to 10X.

Now that my set up is adequate, I’m looking forward to trying the CVA Wolf in the field. I hope this gun will provide many, many years of service.

Equipment Review: Leupold Zero Point Boresighter

The Leupold Zero Point boresighter is an ingenious device. Magnets hold the device to the muzzle of any gun, and an image is projected into the scope. The image is a target surrounded by a grid. The gun can be sighted by lining up the crosshairs to the center of the projected target. Once the crosshairs are aligned to the grid center, theoretically the projectile (bullet, slug, sabot) should “hit-the-paper” at 100 yards.
The appeal of the Leupold boresighter is that it is intended for use on any gun, it can be used indoors or out, and it is portable enough to be brought along to check the center of a gun at any time. The product is also reasonably priced compared to other laser boresighters on the market. The Leupold boresighter can be purchased for under $100. All of these are great features that would make the Leupold Zero Point boresighter a great product. The problem is that is does not work all the time.
I used the Leupold Zero Point on my Savage .30-06 with a 3-9X scope, and it worked well. I tried it again on my father’s .300 Winchester Mag and it said the gun was 16 inches low. We zeroed it out, and then went to the range. Even though the Leupold Zero Point said the gun was now dead center, not only was the gun off the paper at 75 yards, but it was not even hitting the plywood holding the paper. We had to bring the target in to about 25 yards, and sight in the gun the old fashioned way by firing and adjusting, then moving the target out. We then used the Leupold Zero Point on a new muzzleloader that was supposed to be previously boresighted by the gunsmith that mounted the scope. Neither the Leupold Zero Point nor the gunsmith boresighing was hitting on the paper with this gun. Once again, we had to go to the range and get the gun sighted in the old fashioned way. Finally, I tried the Leupold Zero Point on my Mossberg 500 slug gun (rifled barrel). This gun was previously sighted in last year to hit the paper at 50 yards, but was not fine-tuned to be consistently in the black. This gun only has a 2.5X scope. The Leupold Zero Point did not work on this gun. The image projected into the scope was so small in size that it was not clearly visible. I suspect the Leupold Zero Point was not intended for scopes of such low magnification. In summary, I’m going to say that the Leupold Zero Point worked on 1.5 of 4 guns (It half worked on the muzzleloader. It worked well on my .30-06. It did not work on the .300 Winchester Mag or the Mossberg 500 slug gun.). When it worked, it seemed like a pretty good device. However, if you plan on using this one boresighter on all your firearms, it’s unlikely to be able to work on all. If you happen to have one of the guns on which this device works (like my .30-06), this is a great device to check your center easily at any time. If you have one of the guns that are not compatible with the Leupold Zero Point you will likely be disappointed. There does not seem to be a way to predict which guns will work well with this device, and which ones will not. I’m going to give this device one more chance. I have a new muzzleloader on which I am installing a scope. If the Leupold Zero Point does not work on this gun, I will be returning it for a refund. If it works, I’ll keep it with the understanding that it’s useful for some guns, but not all.

Kolpin Sight Vice A Good Deal

I've been wanting to get a gun rest for sighting in my firearms for some time now. Up to this point, I've tried to site in free hand which certainly reduces the accuracy of my shooting. I've hesitated up to this point because some of the nicer gun rests run several hundreds of dollars. That's more expensive than many of my guns! This past week Cabela's ran a sale on the Kolpin Sight Vice offering it for $10. For that price I could not resist. Even if it was a piece of junk, for $10 I figured it was worth a try. At best it could save me from buying a $200+ gun rest. At worst, I'd be out only $10.

I received the Kolpin Sight Vice earlier this week. I was not expecting much, but I was presently surprised with the usefulness of this gun rest. Certainly it's not as sturdy as a $300 Lead Sled, but the Kolpin helped me out right away. I was able to use the Kolpin Sight Vice to securely hold my muzzleloader while I worked on mounting a new scope. I then used it to secure several guns while I checked the zero with a boresighter.

The Kolpin Sight Vice uses simple clamps with padding to tightly hold the gun in place. The device has a freestanding front rest, or you can switch it out to use clamps on both sides. The underside of the rest has a compartment in which lead shot can be added to give the rest extra weight. The compartment is relatively small, so unlike the expensive gun rests, you are going to have to live with some recoil while shooting with this rest.

The rest uses 3 legs. One of the legs has a simple spring loaded threaded rod which can be easily turned to adjusted the elevation of the gun during shooting. The Kolpin Sight Vice is made of plastic, not steel like the expensive rests, so you can expect it to be less robust than the expensive models. It might not be the choice for sighting in a sniper rifle intended to shoot a 2 inch group at 500 yards. However, for most hunting applications, the rest is more than adequate to assist the shooter in sighting in a firearm, especially for such a low price. If you want all the features, don't buy this product. If you're looking for something simple and want to save a buck, the Kolpin Sight Vice is a useful tool.

Summary of Shot Gun Chokes

With bird season approaching, it's an appropriate time to start to considering upland game equipment.

I found this summary of shot gun chokes on the Kittery Trading Post website. I thought it was a good quick summary and explanation.

The progression goes from least to most choke constriction.

Popular Shotgun Chokes:

Cylinder Bore: This is a straight tube with no constriction at all. It would be the same as if you cut a barrel back four or five inches and removed all the choke in it, leaving just a straight tube.
Skeet 1: This has a .005" constriction and tightens the pattern just a little. It is great for skeet shooting or any type of shooting where the shots are 25 yards or less.
Improved Cylinder: This is tighter than Skeet 1 with about .010" constriction. Great for shots under thirty yards or so or if you want to shoot Foster type slugs in your bird gun.
Skeet 2: This has about .015" constriction and is actually a "light modified". Great for ducks over decoys and some pass shooting under certain conditions. It makes a nice early season pheasant choke for the second shot. Good for almost 35 yards.
Modified: This was the most common choke a few years ago. It usually represents about a .020" constriction. All the guns either came with a full or modified choke. It is midway between the tight and open. (Kind of like ordering a medium instead of a large or small, if you will.) Good out to 35 yards.
Improved Modified: This is a little tighter than modified but not as tight as full. Usually about .025" constriction. Popular with some trap shooters and a good choice for late season pheasants.
Full: This is the standard long-range choke. Usually a .040" constriction. Good for 40 yards or more and was the most popular choke for trap shooting, and years ago, for pass shooting at ducks when we used to shoot lead.

Extra Full or Super Full Turkey Choke: These are the tightest chokes used when you want to put a full pattern on a turkey's head. These will run .045" constriction or tighter depending on the maker. It is too tight for most standard applications but for turkey hunting, it is an excellent choice with the right shot.

Credit given to Kittery Trading Post website for this information.